Tromsø in winter: polar night and northern lights

Tromsø, at almost 70 degrees north in Arctic Norway, is one of the best-known places in Europe for the northern lights – and in midwinter, one of the few cities where the sun does not rise for weeks. The short answer: according to Visit Tromsø, the polar night lasts from about 27 November to 15 January, the northern lights season runs from late August to early April, and whale watching is possible from November to January.

Tromsø in winter at a glance

Averages 2015–2024 from the ERA5 reanalysis (via Open-Meteo), rounded; in winter precipitation falls mostly as snow.

Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Tromsø is much milder than places at the same latitude in Siberia or Canada: days just below freezing, nights rarely far below -10 °C on average. But it is wet – over 100 mm a month – so expect a lot of snow, and wind by the water. Warm, waterproof boots with grip matter more than an extreme down jacket. YesTrip shows you the forecast for your actual travel days and suggests matching clothes in the packing list.

The polar night

During the polar night (mørketid), the sun stays below the horizon all day. According to Visit Tromsø, it lasts from about 27 November to 15 January; because of the mountains around the city, the returning sun is usually not visible from the centre until later in January. "Dark" does not mean black: for a few hours around noon the sky turns blue, pink and purple, with snow reflecting the light. It is a time of its own, and many visitors come exactly for this light.

In practice, the polar night means short outdoor windows. Plan walks, the cable car and photos for the late morning and midday, and keep the long evenings for the northern lights, a concert or a sauna.

Northern lights

Visit Tromsø gives the northern lights season as late August to early April. Tromsø lies beneath the auroral oval, the ring around the magnetic pole where the lights are most frequent, which gives the region good conditions. What you need on the night is a clear sky and some solar activity; the lights are never guaranteed.

Because the coast often has clouds, the best chances come from flexibility:

• Stay several nights, ideally four or more, so you have more than one chance of a clear sky.
• Get away from the city lights. A guided evening tour drives to wherever the sky is clear, sometimes far inland; tours and boat trips can be booked as northern lights tours in Tromsø^* on Tiqets.
• Check the forecast for clouds rather than only for aurora activity.

Our guide on where to see the northern lights compares Tromsø with Lapland, Iceland and other places.

What to do in winter

According to Visit Tromsø, winter is the season for:

• Dog sledding (autumn and winter), on tours outside the city.
• Whale watching from November to January, when whales follow the herring into the fjords.
• Sami culture and reindeer, with visits to reindeer herders near the city.

In the city itself: the Fjellheisen cable car up to a viewpoint above Tromsø, the white Arctic Cathedral across the bridge, and the museums on the history of Arctic expeditions. Our plan for Tromsø combines these with free evenings for the northern lights.

When to go

• Late November to mid-January: the polar night, Christmas lights and whale watching; the darkest time, with only a few hours of twilight.
• February and March: the light comes back fast, the snow is deep, and the nights are still dark enough for the northern lights; a good choice for a first visit.
• Late August to October: the northern lights season has started, but without snow – a different trip altogether.

Getting there

Tromsø Airport lies on the island a few kilometres from the city centre, with buses and taxis into town. Most connections from London change in Oslo; in winter there are also direct flights from some European cities. A car gives you freedom on clear nights, but winter driving on snow and ice in the dark is demanding; you can compare rental cars in Tromsø^* (EconomyBookings).

Where to stay

• City centre: restaurants, the harbour and the buses for tour pick-ups within walking distance.
• Tromsdalen: across the bridge, near the Arctic Cathedral and the cable car, a little quieter.
• Outside the city: cabins on the islands and along the fjords, with darker skies, but you need a car.

Norway is part of the European Economic Area, so EU roaming rules usually apply to EU SIM cards. From elsewhere, a travel eSIM for Norway^* (Airalo) is usually cheaper than roaming; our eSIM price index compares prices per gigabyte. If your flight leaves in the evening, there is luggage storage in Tromsø^* (Radical Storage).

If you prefer the Finnish side of Lapland, read Rovaniemi in winter.

Tromsø trip planDay by day, with map and tips

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