Albania itinerary: 10-day road trip

Albania works well as a loop: you land in Tirana, spend half a day at the castle of Krujë and then head south through the hinterland to the two Ottoman old towns of Berat and Gjirokastër. Past the karst spring of the Blue Eye you reach the Ionian Sea at Saranda, with the beaches of Ksamil and the ancient city of Butrint in the far south. The way back follows the coast along the Albanian Riviera with Himarë and Dhërmi and climbs to the Llogara Pass. With more time, add three days in the mountains around Theth.

The route at a glance

Driving times: route calculation based on OpenStreetMap, without breaks. On the mountain roads and with photo stops on the coast, add about a third. In total it is about 735 km.

Days 1–2: Tirana and Krujë

Tirana is loud, colourful and surprisingly relaxed. At its centre lies the wide Skanderbeg Square with the equestrian statue of the national hero, and next to it stands the small Et'hem Bey Mosque with its painted walls. In the city and across the countryside you keep seeing bunkers from the Cold War era; two of them are now museums under the name Bunk'Art. A cable car climbs the city's own mountain, Dajti, with a view across the plain. We have a ready-made plan for Tirana.

Tirana trip planDay by day, with map and tips

On day two drive just under three quarters of an hour to Krujë on a mountainside north of the city. In the castle, the Skanderbeg Museum remembers the prince who resisted the Ottomans from here in the 15th century. An old bazaar with wooden shops selling carpets, felt and copper leads up to the castle. By the afternoon you are back in Tirana.

Day 3: Berat

Berat is called the city of a thousand windows: the white houses of the Mangalem quarter stand so close together on the slope that their rows of windows sit one above the other. Across the Osum river lies the Gorica quarter, linked by an old stone bridge. On the hilltop the castle is still lived in; Byzantine churches stand between the houses, and in one of them the Onufri Museum shows icons. Since 2008 Berat has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with Gjirokastër. Stay for an evening, when the windows on the hillside light up.

Day 4: Gjirokastër

The drive south through hills and river valleys is the longest leg of the trip. Gjirokastër is the stone counterpart to Berat: the roofs are covered with grey stone slabs, and many houses are tall, fortified tower houses such as the Zekate House. A large fortress towers over the old town, and steep cobbled lanes meet in the bazaar quarter. The writer Ismail Kadare was born here. Wear shoes with a good grip; the cobbles are slippery.

Day 5: the Blue Eye and Saranda

On the way to the coast lies the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a karst spring where water rises from a great depth. The funnel glows deep blue, the water around it turquoise. From the car park you walk a short way through the woods; it is quietest in the morning. Then the road crosses the hills to Saranda, a port town with a long seafront facing the Greek island of Corfu. Ferries to Corfu leave from Saranda.

Saranda trip planDay by day, with map and tips

Day 6: Ksamil and Butrint

South of Saranda lies Ksamil, with small coves and islets just offshore in pale water. Only a few kilometres further on begins Butrint National Park: an ancient city on a wooded peninsula between a lagoon and the sea, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1992. Greeks, Romans, Byzantines and Venetians all built here, and you walk past a theatre, a baptistery with a mosaic floor and a large basilica to the Venetian tower. Allow two to three hours for the circuit, ideally in the morning, then swim in Ksamil.

Days 7–8: Himarë and Dhërmi

The coast road north is the Albanian Riviera: steep mountains above pebble coves and clear water. On the way, the small fortress of Porto Palermo sits on a headland in a sheltered bay. Himarë has a beach in town and an old castle settlement on the hill above. The next day you drive a short way on to Dhërmi: the old village with its churches clings to the slope, with a long, pale beach below. This is the day for a proper beach break; if you like, explore the coves on a boat trip^*.

Days 9–10: the Llogara Pass, Vlorë and the flight home

From Dhërmi the road winds up in many hairpins to the Llogara Pass at more than 1,000 metres. From the viewpoint at the top you see the whole Riviera, and on a clear day as far as Corfu. On the other side you drive down through the pine forests of Llogara National Park to Vlorë with its long promenade. On the last day it is just over two hours of pure driving to Tirana airport; allow plenty of time, as traffic around the capital is heavy.

Extension: three days in Shkodër and Theth

With three extra days, head north at the end. Tirana to Shkodër is 98 km, approx. 1:58 h of pure driving. The city lies on the largest lake in the Balkans, below Rozafa castle. From there a narrow mountain road leads into the Albanian Alps to Theth: 73 km, approx. 2:13 h. The village lies in a high valley between rock walls, with a small church, an old defensive tower and hiking trails to the Grunas waterfall and over the pass to Valbona. The way back runs via Shkodër to the airport: 159 km, approx. 4 h. It is much cooler in the mountains, and in winter snow can close the road.

Best time for an Albania road trip

The best months are May, June and September: average daily highs in Saranda are then between 23 and 28 °C, the sea is warm enough to swim in June and September, and Berat and Gjirokastër are pleasant to explore on foot. In July and August it is hot at around 32 °C on the coast and in Tirana, and the Riviera beaches are crowded. From October it gets wet, and November is by far the rainiest month. For Theth, June to September is best.

Climate in Saranda: 2015–2024 averages from the ERA5 reanalysis (Open-Meteo), rounded. Tirana is similarly warm in summer and cooler at night in winter.

Good to know before you go

• Entry: Albania is not in the EU. Check the current entry requirements in your government's official travel advice.
• Money and phone: The currency is the lek. EU roaming rules do not apply automatically – check your plan or get an eSIM for Albania^*.
• Car hire: Picking up and returning at Tirana airport is simplest, as the route is a loop. Compare the total price and the rental terms.
• Driving: Traffic drives on the right. On mountain roads expect tight bends, animals on the road and changing surfaces. Avoid driving after dark where you can.
• Parking: In the old towns of Berat and Gjirokastër the lanes are narrow and steep. Choose accommodation with parking on the edge.
• Arrival: If you would rather not drive on the first evening, book a transfer from the airport^* and collect the car on day two.
• Flight: A direct flight from London to Tirana takes approx. 3 hours.

How YesTrip helps with this trip

Create a trip in YesTrip with the stops of this route: the app shows every place on the map, uses AI to plan your days in Tirana, Berat and on the coast and shows the weather for your travel days. The packing list suggests clothing to match the forecast – swimwear for the Riviera, sturdy shoes for the cobbled lanes and, if you go to Theth, a warm jacket. The offline map helps in the mountains, where the signal can be weak, and if you travel with friends you can share the trip and the expenses in the app. For Tirana and Saranda there are our ready-made city plans.

For the capital at the start or end of this route, see how many days in Tirana.

* Ad – Partner link: if you book there, we earn a commission. Your price stays the same.